From age-old eateries in the bylanes of the Walled City to glitzy, specialty restaurants
in five-star hotels, Delhi is a moveable feast. It's a city that has risen and fallen
over and over again. For centuries, Delhi has been India's most politically
significant city. And now the country's capital is going through another transformation. It is seeing
a quiet, yet a dramatic makeover ahead
William Dalrymple has set out to trace the layers of culture, civilization and history
in the ancient-modern city of Delhi. The enthralling episodes are dealt with in
reverse chronology starting from Anti-Sikh riots in 1984 and then the text probes into history
to reach the site of Indraprastha. Delhi is evolving every time and therefore it is never
dead. The end of one culture contains seed for rejuvenation of
another and thus it is growing and evolving culturally since
pre-historic times. The book follows Dalrymple's
established style of historical digressions tied with contemporary events and a multitude of
anecdotes. Dalrymple describes Delhi as, "full of riches and horrors: it was a labyrinth, a city
of palaces, an open gutter, filtered light through a filigree lattice, a landscape of domes,
an anarchy, a press of people, a choke of fumes, a whiff of
spices". In the course of exploration, he unveils `the seven dead cities' of Delhi, the present one is the eighth
and each city is an account of destruction and reconstruction of Delhi. Moving from
1984 anti-Sikh riots to the partition trauma and then to the British Raj in history,
Dalrymple explores Delhi under Mughals and Muhammed-bin-Tughlaq and in his journey goes up
to the site of Indrapastha, the city of Pandavas as described in the Mahabharata. The sadhus at Nigambodh Ghat are the representatives of this Delhi that was invaded
and destroyed but was rebuilt like "a phoenix from the fire" (CD, p. 9).
City of Djinns immortalizes Delhi and brings to the fore "the pulsating Delhi which
is a cross fertilization of many cultures, and in its new avatars, a completely urban
metropolis. Moving backwards and forwards in time, what emerges is a kaleidoscope of
images. From the days of the Mughal rule, which are recaptured through the monuments of
Delhi, to the partition and what remains behind the walled city, to the post partition which
leads to the emergence of a new class of Punjabis who make Delhi their home and a
contrast to the aborigines of Delhi who turn out to be the residents of North
Delhi." |